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Correct Behaviors Problems

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Introduction to re-education

This section is dedicated to the re-education of dogs with behavior problems. In many cases, undesirable behaviors stem either from a basic training problem or from an unsuitable environment for social development. Although it is possible to correct negative behaviors without following and mastering the basic commands, it is highly recommended that you revert to it, so that the education is complete.

Many simulations are necessary to re-educate a dog. Certain specific situations must be simulated many times, and be integrated into the family routine in order to change the animal's habits.

Common problems:
  • Late intervention (the negative pattern is already completed)
  • Sporadic redirection (inconsistency or irregularity in procedures)
  • No alternative to inappropriate behavior.
  • Difficulty in orienting the dog's behavior properly.
  • Inability to recreate the required training scenarios or situations.
  • Anger
Before you begin

Before proceeding, we suggest that you consult a veterinarian so as to determine if the bad behavior is due to a medical problem. The Multivet approach is a general one dealing with all type of problems but without necessarily going into detail. It is up to you to find the information related to the category of problem which interests you.

You can consult the "Ask the experts" section on our website, www.multivet-inter.com You can fill out an online questionnaire for behavior evaluation and send it to us.
Soiling problems

Many physical ailments can be at the root of this type of behavior. These include urinary tract infections, internal parasites, a hormonal disorder, a foreign object or body, dysfunction of the anal glands, a neurological problem, an allergy, a change in diet, inappropriate food, and many more.

A dog that has a problem with cleanliness is not driven by anger or by a desire to be vengeful toward his master. However it can be caused by anxiety, fear, or stress. Any attempt to punish a dog by showing him the mess while shouting or hitting him is totally useless and will only exacerbate the problem. In fact, a dog doesn't recall something he did only minutes before.

Procedure to prevent soiling:
Place the dog or puppy in his cage and feed him. When he has finished his meal, observe him. Wait ten to fifteen minutes. Take him out, put on his leash, and bring him directly to the place where you want him to eliminate from now on. Every time you take the dog outside for this purpose, you must use an appropriate command. When he relieves himself, give him the "BEEP & TREAT" , then play with your dog, so he doesn't associate defecation or urination with the obligation to go back into the house. But if your dog does not do his 'business' within five minutes, put him back into his cage for 30 minutes, then take him out again for another five-minute period, and so on, until he has done his 'business'.

Do not let the dog wander in the house without supervision until you are sure he is clean.
When you have no time to take care of your puppy, put him back in his cage. His cage should be big enough for his adult size so that when he reaches maturity, he can sit, turn around, and lie down comfortably. If the cage is too big for the dog, there is a possibility that he will defecate in a corner, and still have enough room to distance himself from his stools. If such is the case, partition the back of the cage with a cardboard box or a piece of wood (if he destroys the box), so that the cage is of adequate size for your puppy.

An older dog might need some "encouragement" to become accustomed to his new cage. To facilitate the process, start by tossing a treat inside and tell the dog to go in. You can then either close the door, or leave it open. If you close it, give him some extra treats now and then. The dog must not be allowed to bark, because the situation could degenerate into a problem of excessive barking. Don't set him free when he cries; if you do so, the dog will quickly understand that all he has to do to be released is bark or cry. The dog may come out of his cage only if he stops barking.

You should feed your dog at the same times every day. This way, he will develop a routine, to eat first and go out to defecate at regular times.
A few weeks into his training, put your dog to the test by letting him out of his cage after each meal without taking him outside. This will give you the opportunity to correct him, should he attempt to relieve himself in the house, or to congratulate him if he asks for the door.

Take him out when you get up in the morning, after breakfast, at noon and after each meal, before and after supper, and before going to bed. Every time he does his 'business', reward him. Once the dog has been educated, you can decrease the frequency of outings to at least 4 times a day. All you have to do is establish and maintain a regular schedule. Meal times and defecation times must be fixed, and you must keep to those hours. Defecation rhythms vary from one dog to another. If you are familiar with your dog's rhythm, you will not have any nasty surprises. Do not forget that the same schedule applies to the weekend as well.

How to correct your dog's errors
When your dog makes an error, he must understand what he did wrong. He will have to be let loose in the house, and be given the opportunity to eliminate in your presence. There are two types of 'messy' situations: (1) you catch your dog in the act; and (2) you discover the 'accident' after the fact.

If you catch your dog in the act
In such circumstances, avoid striking. Otherwise, he will associate defecation with punishment, and the dog will fear defecating in your presence. It will then become hard to go outside with your dog for this purpose, as he will refuse to do it in front of you.

So, whenever you see the dog sniffing the ground, going around in circles, waking up from a long snooze, putting a stop to his playing, and start crouching down, you must:
  • Interrupt him by giving him the verbal warning "HEY!" while releasing a short spray.
  • Take him out for five minutes.
  • Give the command for defecation or urination, for instance, "Go Potty" or "Get Busy".
  • Put him back in his cage. If the dog did not relieve himself, take him out once more, twenty to thirty minutes later for five minutes, and so on, until you have obtained the desired results.
  • If he does what is required, give him a "BEEP & TREAT". If you discover the mess after the fact
    When a mess is discovered after the fact, it is already too late to correct the dog. Clean it up right away, otherwise the dog will understand that it is acceptable to defecate or urinate at that place. Since dogs have a tendency to relieve themselves in a spot where they recognize the odor of their own stools, it is recommended that you neutralize the odor using a mix of vinegar and water.
Destruction

What is deemed typical canine behavior can be a serious problem for many dog owners. A dog that wants to play, digs holes or chews on an object, or simply wants explore the environment with his snout may actually destroy valuable items. However, such destructive behavior could be caused by other serious problems, such as separation anxiety. Many factors, such as lack of exercise, boredom, panic and discomfort, can be at the root of the problem of digging, chewing and shredding.

Dogs do not destroy objects because they are mean, or because the master cannot control his dog; destruction has nothing to do with dominance. A perfectly obedient dog that responds very well to all commands can nevertheless be destructive. The only way to correct the dog's behavior is to catch him in the act. After that, it's too late.

Here is a set of exercises which must be executed regularly, every day of the week. In order to prevent destruction, it is imperative that the dog plays with and chews on his own toys. First of all, reward your dog every time he smells or chews on his own toys. Furthermore, you can hide an object and ask the dog to find it. This part of the exercise aims at showing the dog to find the chewable object instead of destroying the first piece of furniture he sees.

“Good” objects must in no way resemble those that are "off limits" and destined for use by humans, whether it be on account of the shape or the texture. Typically, these "good" objects are made of resistant rubber and are especially designed for dogs in that they are practically indestructible. One must avoid giving the dog any objects which entice generalization, such as an old shoe, a pair of socks, a piece of clothing, a child's toy, a piece of wood, etc.

The following guidelines will ensure success in preventing destruction :
  • Pick up all "forbidden" objects lying on the floor, close the door to all rooms, cupboards, everywhere the dog is not allowed to go.
  • Buy some dog toys and place them in parts of the house where the dog can go, especially on the rugs, on his personal cushion, on the patio, in the yard, etc.
  • During the learning stage, congratulate your dog each time he sniffs, touches or returns a toy.
  • Change the odor of the toy to make it interesting. Soak it in beef, chicken or liver broth and let it dry. Fill the cracks of nylon bones with cheese, peanut butter, or dried liver. As for the kong and other related toys, leave a cookie inside. The dog will spend a lot of energy finding a way to reach it.
  • Fifteen to thirty minutes before leaving the house, give the stuffed toy to your dog and ignore him, that is, no hugs or words that could excite or worry the dog. You can also hide a few bones in the house so the dog can find them once you're gone.
  • Fifteen minutes after you return to the house, ask your dog to bring you his toy. Congratulate and hug your dog if he brings it. In order to reinforce this positive behavior, give him a reward.
Correcting the problem of destruction
The Spray Commander device allows the owner to easily redirect behavior if the dog has a tendency to chew the legs on chairs or tables, shoes or clothes, or has the bad habit of digging in flatbeds, eating plants and shrubs, or sharpening his claws on doors. The dog must be made to understand quickly that such behavior is unacceptable. When the dog ceases the offensive behavior, an alternative must be offered right away, such as a bone or an " acceptable " toy to chew on. Offering an alternative will counter their natural needs to wreak havoc on your environment and quality of life.

Procedure to solve the problem of destruction
The principle is always the same: to redirect a dog who chews on forbidden objects with the "HEY!" warning and a short citronella spray, and to congratulate a dog that chews on acceptable objects by giving him a "BEEP & TREAT".
  • Calmly and patiently put your dog in the exact place where he was caught destroying your property or an object. As soon as the dog goes to the forbidden place and repeats the error, give him the "HEY!" warning with a short spray. Use this technique each time the dog slips up. If, after three attempts, the dog refuses to comply, isolate him for one hour or so, and try again later.
  • Redirect the dog toward an alternative to chew on, such as a bone or a toy, and set him free as you do so. Each time the dog finds himself in a situation where he could resume his destructive habit, he'll know that he can chew on such a toy, but not on the furniture legs.
  • If, after two minutes, the dog has not resumed his destructive pattern and is using his toy, give him the "BEEP & TREAT". It is strongly recommended to practice when your dog thinks you are away. To do this, position yourself at a place where your dog cannot see you. As soon as the dog resumes his destructive habitr, give him the long citronella spray without the verbal warning.
  • Several times a day, place the dog in a situation where the destructive behavior is most likely to occur. You must be vigilant, as the dog's behavior must be redirected immediately, even if the dog is not wearing the collar.
Make sure that the dog gets enough exercise
In order to counter the dog's desire to chew, take him on a thirty minute walk, or play ball with him before you leave the house for work. This will allow the dog to relax and spend a little energy. The exercise will be good for you as well!
Chasing

In their natural habitat, dogs must sometimes chase to survive. The chasing instinct is deeply engraved in the dog's subconscious. Though certain dogs are trained to work with herds, all dogs possess this trait to a degree. In the wild, a moving or flying target awakens the chasing instinct. A domestic dog with these same strong tendencies will react in a similar fashion, no matter what the moving target is: another dog, a cat, a squirrel, even a car. A dog that is unable to spend excess energy will find a way to use it.

A dog chases either by pure instinct, to get rid of an intruder entering his territory, or to play. For example, you are outside and you want to take a walk with your dog. He will be obedient until a bicycle passes by and disturbs him; his urge to chase will be stronger than his will to obey your command. Since chasing may have unfortunate consequences, this behavior must be modified.

Procedure to counter chasing
  • When your dog begins to chase a target and you cannot get his attention, give him the verbal warning "HEY!" with a short citronella spray. If the dog does not stop, switch to the long spray.
  • Once you have your dog's attention using the device, redirect him with a basic command, such as "STAY" and/or "COME".
  • If he returns to your side, give him a "BEEP & TREAT".
  • Each time the dog shows signs of chasing, his behavior must be redirected using the combined "COME" and "STAY" commands.
  • Once your dog has learned not to use his chasing instinct for two consecutive minutes, you can practice certain obedience exercises before congratulating him with the sound ("beep") and reward.
  • Do the exercise when your dog thinks you are gone. Set your dog free and hide. Make sure that the chasing stimulus is well within the dog's sight, and that you practice this exercise in a safe place. As soon as he runs toward the target, trigger the citronella spray without using the verbal warning.
Important notes:
  • You might have to use the maximum spray setting on your device if your dog is submitted to a strong stimulation.
  • It is imperative to congratulate the dog if he returns to your side.
  • The command "FETCH" is recommended to help your dog spend his excess energy.
The dog that jumps and grabs at people

Some dogs, when they meet people for the first time, cannot contain their excitement and nervousness. They can therefore jump on a guest as a mark of greeting. Generally, this causes more embarrassment to the master than discomfort for the guest. Sometimes, a dog shows his excess enthusiasm by jumping on a child, an elderly person, or worse still, a person who is afraid of dogs. A dog must be trained not to jump on anybody. Sometimes, this bad habit is caused by an unconscious reinforcement, either on the part of the master or the guest. The dog could very well have never been trained to behave otherwise, or the guests could pet the dog when he jumps on them, thus sending the message that this is acceptable behavior. For reasons of safety and hygiene, it is best to train the dog to greet guests properly.

The dog risks jumping or grabbing when :
  • The dog sees you after a period of absence.
  • You pet the dog.
  • You are seated in a chair.
  • You are holding food in your hands.
  • You are playing with the dog, and he gets excited.
  • The dog wants to show his dominance.
  • The trick consists in finding out what makes the dog jump, recreating the problem situations and showing him not to jump.
In order to resolve the problem, each person involved must contribute to redirecting the dog's behavior. Any arrival at the family home must be done as calmly as possible so as not to excite the dog. Never talk to or pet an excited dog - be neutral. Ask a friend to enter the house; a series of successive entries and exits could be simulated for the sake of practice. Visitors must be advised that the dog must not be petted if he jumps. If the dog jumps, use the following approach.

Procedure to counter jumping:
  • As soon as the dog gets onto his hind legs, give the "HEY!" warning, with an assertive tone, and a short citronella spray.
  • Do not look or lunge at him. If he has jumped, avoid eye contact.
  • Then, tell him to "SIT" and "STAY"; after a few seconds, release him with the"O.K." cue.
  • If the dog avoids jumping for two minutes, congratulate him with a "BEEP & TREAT". If each jumping attempt is immediately dealt with, the dog will not jump on anyone.
  • Once the dog is accustomed to a person, he becomes less excited; for this reason, we recommend that you practice the same exercise with other people. It is therefore wise to expose the dog to new people at regular intervals.
What to do after a few practice sessions
At the moment of encounter with people, give the command "[DOG'S NAME]" + "SIT" and reward the dog if he obeys. If you make your dog sit every time you have guests, and congratulate and reward him for obeying, he will quickly adopt this behavior. If the dog resumes his jumping habit, give him the citronella spray and repeat the exercise. A dog that jumps and doesn't respond to the "SIT" command should never receive food or attention from the guests.

In order to keep the dog sharp, put him to the test. Don't forget to recreate the situation with another person, and maintain the same attitude when a real guest arrives. Come home with a bag full of treats which you put in a place where the dog is likely to jump for it. If the dog resists the temptation to jump, give him a treat. If he jumps, use the technique described above. If the dog jumps without you having the device at hand, use the warning "HEY!"; the verbal warning has already been associated with the spray, thus keeping its full warning impact.
Stealing objects

Many dogs have a tendency to pick up everything that happens to be in their path, whether it is edible or not. Many dogs will "steal" slippers, papers, clothes, food, whatever! Some of them steal objects to destroy them, to bury them, or to study them. Others will steal the TV remote control just to attract their masters' attention!

Procedure to counter stealing:
  • Place your dog in situations where he is likely to steal objects, either by placing a steak or chicken on your kitchen table, or by leaving your shoes or any other object that your dog could steal. Patiently observe your dog.
  • As soon as your dog goes toward the food or desired object, give him the "HEY!" warning with an assertive tone, and a short spray.
  • Immediately redirect your dog with a basic command such as "SIT" and "STAY" (see chapter on commands), then congratulate him, with the sound ("beep") and a reward; if he obeys, let him wander freely, and keep your eyes open so that he doesn't return to the same place.
  • Two minutes later, if the dog hasn't relapsed, give him the "BEEP & TREAT".
  • Practice the exercise when your dog thinks you're away, using the long spray setting without saying "HEY!", so the dog understands that even if you are not in sight, his tendency to steal will be corrected with the spray.
  • If you do not manage to recover the stolen object, consult the section about the command "GIVE".
NOTE: The Spray Barrier device can be used when you are not around to watch your dog. If the dog steals objects while you're gone for long periods of time, place the Spray Barrier at the "crime scene", that is, wherever the thefts occured. The device in question can be installed at the exact place where the dog is most likely to steal. The receiver on the collar will be automatically activated at the moment the dog approaches the emitter
Coprophagia (consumption of feces by a dog)

The dog that eats feces needs to be corrected. Basic treatment consists in modifying the diet, beginning with the elimination of table scraps, reducing the portions at mealtime, directing the dog to the "pack leader", eating regular meals at regular times.

We recommend that you take care of the physiological cause before you contemplate re-education. It is necessary to maintain regularity in the amount and the quality of the food the dog is eating. When you catch your dog eating feces, give him the citronella spray, then throw a ball at him, or give him a series of commands to distract him and prevent him from going back to the stools.

However, many dogs wait for the master's absence to eat stools. Hide and observe your dog. As soon as he nears his stools or those of another animal, use the long spray. If after defecation, the dog doesn't go back to his stools, congratulate him and give him the sound and a reward. After a few repetitions, most dogs will be dissuaded from this behavior.
The agitated, excitable dog

A state of constant agitation prevents the dog from relaxing, taking away his ability to be attentive and to learn. To correct the problem, the situation must be well understood. The dog's behavior is usually an indicator of symptoms related to a problem, and not the problem itself. Barking and destruction must be stopped, of course, but it's more urgent to address the question of the dog's ability to relax and to wait patiently within his environment. The dog needs quality time with his master, not necessarily to play, but just to be with his master in a "STAY" position, and to gnaw on a bone for instance. Any stimulating activity, such as combat in all its forms, is to be avoided. When this objective has been reached, you can start working on symptoms brought on by agitation. By then, the dog will have understood that the best way to get attention is to be calm when his master gives him the command "STAY". Always react to your dog calmly.

Most of the time, excess agitation in a dog can be attributed either to poor training practices, a high-sugar diet, a lack of exercise, or lack of backbone on the part of the master. When dogs fall into a fitful state, they display all sorts of problem behavior. They gets most excited when they encounter new people or animals. Dogs must be given some exercise so that they can work off excess energy. Still, a dog can be agitated and a nuisance despite the exercise, should a visitor show up at the door. Practice the "STAY" or "PLACE" command. For more information, consult the chapter on the commands.

You must ignore your dog's pleas. If he keeps on disturbing you, say "HEY!" with an assertive tone and give him the short spray. If the dog remains calm, congratulate him and give him some attention. A dog that is overexcited should never be rewarded for this annoying behavior. He must be isolated until he is calm once again. The cage is a good tool for dealing with an over-stimulated dog. When he becomes unbearable, put him in the cage and close the door. When he is calm again, give him a treat. If the dog understands the obedience commands, use "PLACE" instead of keeping the animal in his cage.
The dog cries to obtain attention or food

The dog must earn your attention. The dog should never get it freely, whenever he wants it. When your dog approaches you to obtain affection or Dogs quickly learn that crying and begging will get them everywhere. By giving in just once to your dog, you turn control over to him. Many dogs make crying a full-time activity. Frequently, a family member will relent at the sight of a moist-eyed, whining dog, and will feed him from the table The same scenario will repeat itself when you want to put your dog in a cage. No matter what the situation is, any master who gives in to a crying, moaning dog is in for a lot of headaches! The dog will quickly construe that his pitiful look will give him anything he wants .

Whenever the dog cries to win you over with his pitiful look, you must be ready to tell him "HEY!" with an assertive tone. Otherwise, your dog will become the master, you will be unable to leave the house without your dog, you will lose your couch, even your bed! to play, ignore him for a few minutes to give him time to calm down. Give your dog a sequence of commands such as "SIT" - "STAND" - "DOWN". Once your dog has properly executed your commands, he deserves your attention and affection. The dog must always do something to earn your attention. Giving attention doesn't mean petting him for hours - two minutes of petting is enough. Each member of your family must honor this principle. Try giving your dog attention when he doesn't expect it.

Note : If for any reason your dog's cries persist, consult a veterinarian, as he could be suffering from some unknown ailment.

Dogs with such behavior need obedience training. Please consult the chapter on all basic obedience commands, and practice them every day. Give particular attention to the "STAY" and "PLACE" commands.
Fear

If the dog is afraid of something, it means that he had a bad experience, has a predisposition or a lack of socialization. It is very important that the stimulus that causes the fear be identified; for example, noise, the presence of adults, children or other stimuli. There are, in fact, an endless number of possible types of fear, but the most widely used treatment for negative reactions induced by fear is counter-conditioning combined with desensitization.

Fear or phobia treatment is not relative to the master's physical force. If the master forces the dog, the pet will be more fearful the next time. For example, a master can force the dog to encounter lots of people in different places, even if the dog trembles or tries to run away. This is not desensitization. Desensitization is a gradual process that changes the negative perception in a stimulus into a positive one. It is acquired by varying the stimulation, the intensity, the distance, and the environment. The spray should not be used. The idea is to show the dog that there is nothing to fear. If the fear-causing stimulus has been well identified, and the situation can be harnessed, you can gradually present the stimulus in a controlled environment. In many cases of phobia, an antidepressant that renders dogs more receptive can be combined with the desensitization approach. Consult your ethologist or behaviorist veterinarian.

Counter-conditioning and desensitization go well together. Place your dog in a stressful situation repetitively, and reward him when he has calmed down. If the dog shows signs of stress during a desensitization exercise, do not fall into the trap of desperately trying to comfort him. Just stay calm, and the dog will follow suit. At the right moment, congratulate him with the sound and a reward.


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